DEEP in the mountains of West Bali’s Tabanan Regency is the district of Pupuan, a coffee, clove and rice growing region of towering trees and a number of excellent cool-weather hotels.

The unspoiled Pupuan area on the slopes of Mt. Batukaru has some of the most magnificent rice field scenery on the island. Tabanan is Bali’s rice bowl, its rice renowned for its robust flavor, and Pupuan retains the same atmosphere that existed in rural Bali 30 years ago.

The villages of Suradadi and Karyasari around Belimbing, practicing the traditional age-old subak irrigation system, are particularly scenic. The area also supplies fruit, cacao, vanilla and herbs for the domestic and export markets; exotic trees such as durian, mangosteen, rambutan, duku and white mango grace the countryside.

Especially popular with Europeans because of its peace, quiet and perpetually green landscapes, Pupuan’s elevation of 700-800 meters assures cool temperatures year-round, a refreshing break from Bali’s hot and humid coasts.

There are a limited number of hotels and restaurants along the entire Antosari-Seririt road. The Pupuan area’s comfortable accommodations sell not only rooms, but a genuine Balinese mountain village atmosphere where the predominant sound at night is that of crickets and in the mornings birds and faraway crowing roosters.

To get to the place of the big trees, however, you have to take the road of the big trucks two hours out of Denpasar/Kuta west along the coastal highway to Antosari in Tabanan, then head directly north. The district is also reachable one hour south of Lovina on Bali’s north coast.

Where to Stay

Cempaka Belimbing, Cempaka Belimbing Villas, Br. Suradadi, Desa Belimbing, Pupuan, tel: (62-0361) 754-897, email: inbound@kcb-tours.com, homepage: www.kcbtours.com. Bookings: tel: (62-0361) 751-517 attention Okta, fax: 754-934 or 752777. Their 16 spacious villas, constructed of local materials, are carefully sited around existing trees.

Published rates: US$80 single or double including breakfast. Valley view villa: US$100, deluxe suite: US$120; lunch US$10, dinner US$15. Satellite TV, fridge, large verandah. Swimming pool and a jacuzzi overlooking the paddies.

The owner, Pak Purwo employs only boys and girls from the surrounding desa. He bought the village a full gamelan set and built a wantilan so dancers could be trained; now their joged is in high demand in the Belimbing area. In a small forest outside the village is Pura Mekori temple inhabited by monkeys.

Sanda Bukit Villas (Desa Sanda, Pupuan 82163, Tabanan), tel/fax: (62-0361) 828-369-137, email: info@sandavillas.com, homepage: www.sandavillas.com. This small and charming boutique hotel, on the grounds of an old coffee plantation, is about 20 kilometers north of Antosari on the road to Seririt.

Rates (excl. 21% tax & service): US$70 for double and twin suite rooms with open balcony and sitting room, US$80 for double studio rooms with enclosable balcony, and US$95 for double and twin suite rooms with enclosed balcony and sitting room. Prices include breakfast for two people.

With only eight rooms, all equipped with intercoms, the villas offer very personalized service to guests. All rooms are air-conditioned with fans, bar, fridge, TV with BBC and ABC plus local stations, satellite telephones, saltwater swimming pool. Most rooms have enclosed verandas overlooking paddies with occasional views of Mt. Batukaru.

One hundred-meter-high Blehmantung Waterfalls is a 5.8-kilometer walk north of the villas, then another 1.5 kilometers (35-45 minutes each way) hike from the main road. You should wear proper walking shoes, bring a bottle of water and wear a hat. Thongs are definitely out.

The first two-thirds of the way is on a stony track, the last third after the steps on a walkway next along an irrigation canal. It is possible to negotiate the stony section up to the steps on a motorbike (preferably someone else’s) and it has once even been done in a Jimny which didn’t look too good after the ordeal.

The Bali Appropriate Technology Institute, run by Rus and Made Alit, is located by the side of a river in the high mountain village of Sangketan in Bajara District. Mobile: 086-812-103801 or 081-239-56344 (for use on Saturday and Sunday only).

Facilities include five double rooms, two dorm rooms accommodating up to 10 people, plus five Australian-made tents for the overflow. There’s also a swimming pool and a natural river spa with a 7-meter deep water hole.

The cost is Rp100,000 per person per day including food. If training is involved (five person minimum), the charge is Rp150,000 per person per day plus materials.

Your hosts are well-traveled and speak fluent English. Trained by Australian-based World Vision, Rus and Made returned to Bali to help improve the living standard of their village by using appropriate technology.

At B.A.T.I, you can experience an authentic Balinese village, learn natural healing using local plants and extracts, revitalize body, mind and spirit. Visitors may also learn organic farming techniques, water tank construction, worm farming, mushroom growing and fish breeding. Traditional Balinese and Indonesian cooking classes are also offered. Local Balinese orchestra available upon request.

To get there, drive from Denpasar west 40 kilometers to the village of Bajara, turn right (north) and travel for 7 kilometers to the village of Sawah, then turn left to Sangketan. Follow the road to the B.A.T.I. sign.

Bill Dalton

For feedback and comments, write to: daltonbill@telkom.net